For over six centuries, the Antinori household has formed the course of Italian winemaking, establishing a legacy constructed on custom, pioneering imaginative and prescient and an unwavering pursuit of excellence. However Marchese Lodovico Antinori has by no means been one to relaxation on heritage alone. From founding Ornellaia and Masseto — two of Italy’s most celebrated wines — to his newest enterprise, Lodovico Wine, he has persistently pushed boundaries, redefining what Tuscan winemaking may be.
On this unique interview, Mr Lodovico Antinori displays on his journey — from reworking the worldwide notion of Italian wine to embracing sustainability and the evolving tastes of a brand new technology. With an unshakable dedication to high quality and rarity, he continues to form the way forward for advantageous wine, proving that the posh wine trade isn’t just about identify or historical past alone — it’s about imaginative and prescient.
The Antinori household identify is synonymous with centuries of winemaking excellence. How does Lodovico Wine each honour this heritage and carve its personal id?
I began working with the household enterprise in America when Italian wine had a really distant presence there. This was within the late ’60s, a time when the notion of Italian wine was fairly low. Many wines nonetheless got here in straw-wrapped bottles, and the trade was dominated by French wines for reds and German Rieslings for whites. Italian wines had been seen as second-tier.
That have formed my imaginative and prescient. I realised that Italian winemaking had the potential to evolve past custom and stand on equal footing with the world’s finest wines. Fifteen years later, I stepped away from my household enterprise to create one thing small however of outstanding high quality — one thing that really mirrored my philosophy.
I launched my first impartial challenge within the Nineteen Eighties, aiming to raise the requirements of Italian wine. On the time, many Italian producers had been complacent, sticking to the established order. My aim was to wake them up, to indicate that we had the land, the local weather, and the potential to do higher. I wasn’t simply one other Antinori — individuals knew my household identify, however additionally they noticed that I had constructed one thing by myself. That impressed many small producers to boost their requirements. As we speak, the standard of Italian wine has improved considerably, and I take satisfaction in having contributed to that shift.
Lodovico Antinori and his daughter Sophia – 2022
What was the inspiration behind founding Lodovico Wine, and the way does it differ out of your earlier ventures within the wine trade?
The thought for the wine got here from a winery that was uniquely uncovered to the north. Historically, vineyards are planted dealing with southwest to maximise solar publicity. However with the rising temperatures and local weather change, I believed — why not do the alternative? So I planted the winery dealing with north, the place it could obtain much less direct daylight.
At first, I needed to call it “Vigna Nord,” which suggests ‘North Winery.’ However my German agent—one in every of my strongest supporters — insisted in opposition to it. “That may be a catastrophe,” he instructed me outright. He left my workplace abruptly, and later, I referred to as him to ask why. His response: “You’re getting previous—you left the reply proper in entrance of you”. I used to be taken unexpectedly as a result of I had by no means deliberate to place my very own identify on the wine. I used to be hesitant and shy about it at first. However then he gave me an ultimatum — he even wrote me a clean cheque and mentioned, “In case you identify it Lodovico, you may fill within the quantity and money it. However when you insist on calling it Vigna Nord, I gained’t provide you with a single cent”.
Whenever you’re beginning a challenge, funding is crucial, so ultimately, I gave in. That’s how the wine got here to bear my identify. In fact, with a private identify comes an ideal sense of duty — particularly within the American market, the place placing your identify on one thing means a dedication to high quality. It implies a deep degree of care and involvement. Folks assume I examine each barrel myself, which, to be trustworthy, I don’t. However I do take the duty significantly.
What units Lodovico aside out of your earlier tasks?
The largest distinction is that Lodovico is centred round Cabernet Franc. Earlier than this, with Biserno —which you’ll be accustomed to — we labored with a Bordeaux mix, incorporating all of the traditional varieties, together with Petit Verdot. However this challenge focuses totally on Cabernet Franc.
That mentioned, the wine we’re ingesting right this moment additionally incorporates a little bit of Merlot. That’s as a result of our winemaker, Michel Rolland, has a robust choice for Merlot — he simply can’t resist including some to the mix. He’s not as eager on Cabernet Franc as I’m, so we’ve had a number of debates in regards to the percentages. Over time, although, he’s began listening to me extra, and from the 2020 classic onward, we’re lowering the quantity of Merlot.
Earlier than that, from our first classic in 2007 by means of to 2019, we used a better proportion of Merlot — typically 10 to 12 p.c, typically 5 p.c, relying on the yr. However transferring ahead, we’re focusing much more on Cabernet Franc to present the wine a particular character.
Sustainability is a key matter in luxurious winemaking right this moment. How does Lodovico Wine combine sustainable practices with out compromising on high quality?
We’re not absolutely biodynamic or natural, however we’re following a set of protocols that may enable a few of our vineyards to transition to natural practices within the subsequent 5 years. That mentioned, it’s not my main focus in the intervening time. Sustainability is vital, however my most important precedence is at all times high quality. It units an instance within the area. However in fact, sustainability comes at a better value. A sustainability-focused method is dearer than conventional strategies. For instance, in typical winemaking, you may merely spray chemical substances to take away weeds, however that’s not good for the soil or the roots.
We’ve taken a extra ecological method. As an alternative of actively eradicating weeds, we allow them to die off naturally. This implies we don’t have to plough as usually or disturb the land unnecessarily. We goal for sustainability, or as we are saying in Italian, ecosostenibilità, however with out essentially adhering to strict natural certification, which requires particular remedies which can be expensive and don’t essentially enhance the wine.
For pest management, we now not use pesticides. As an alternative, we use a German-developed resolution that stops bugs from reproducing. It doesn’t kill them — it merely disrupts their reproductive cycle. This fashion, the inhabitants step by step declines with out introducing poisonous chemical substances into the winery.
In fact, all of those add to the price of manufacturing. Sustainable practices are dearer than the usual viticulture strategies used throughout Italy, which depend on cheaper, typical remedies. Labour can also be a big issue. Whereas many wineries use machines or quick-fix chemical remedies, we require expert employees to are inclined to the vines manually, guaranteeing each step is completed with precision. This degree of element and care is what makes our wines costly — but in addition what makes them distinctive.
The luxurious wine market is turning into more and more aggressive. What do you consider units Lodovico aside as a collector’s wine?
Amount performs an important function. For instance, Lodovico is proscribed to solely 10,000 bottles per yr. And that quantity won’t ever enhance — it’s written right into a contract, even after I’m gone.
There’s at all times the temptation, when a wine is profitable, to supply extra. However I consider that may be a mistake. Collectors and connoisseurs aren’t silly—they’ve refined palates, and so they can instantly detect even the slightest change in high quality. That’s why we stay dedicated to this strict manufacturing restrict. Rarity is a key consider luxurious, and sustaining exclusivity ensures that our wine stays actually particular.
One other defining component is the function of Cabernet Franc in our wine. The potential for getting old is extraordinary. On the earth of luxurious, longevity is a vital assertion. An amazing wine mustn’t solely be drinkable when younger however also needs to enhance considerably over time.
For instance, we lately opened a bottle of Lodovico from 2007 — one of many earliest vintages, when the vineyards had been nonetheless younger. Solely 3,000 bottles had been produced that yr, but it has aged fantastically. The wine has developed, gaining depth and complexity with none indicators of decline. That’s what defines a really nice wine: the power to mature gracefully over a long time whereas remaining a pleasure to drink at any stage.
How is Lodovico partaking with the brand new, youthful technology of wine drinkers, and what methods are you implementing to enchantment to their evolving tastes and preferences?
They need one thing completely different. Lots of them come from rich households, so that they’ve grown up surrounded by advantageous wines. However they need to distinguish themselves, to drink wines that aren’t the identical as what their mother and father desire.
In the meanwhile, my wines enchantment extra to an older viewers. However I do have a challenge within the works for youthful drinkers — a wine referred to as Villa del Nik, which will likely be from the 2012 classic. This can be a challenge I’m engaged on with my daughter, who’s 25. She will likely be extra in tune with the preferences of the youthful technology. I consider they (youthful customers) desire wines with decrease alcohol content material, wines which can be a bit of lighter, much less opulent, and extra restrained. The development is shifting away from the daring, extremely concentrated wines that had been as soon as designed to impress the American market.
Previously, American customers had been used to ingesting whiskey, milk, or virtually nothing else. After they had been first launched to wine, they discovered the style too tannic, too harsh. That’s when Robert Parker — a really well-known American wine journalist — had a significant affect. He satisfied European winemakers, together with the French, to melt their wines. We tailored, making wines with rounder, smoother tannins, and harvesting later to attain riper fruit flavours. That type dominated for a very long time.
That leads me to my subsequent query. There’s a rising development of alcohol-free wines, notably within the U.S., pushed by a brand new, health-conscious motion on social media. What are your ideas on alcohol-free wine, and do you assume it impacts advantageous wine?
No, advantageous wine is not going to be affected by that in any respect.
In America, they name this sort of factor a “fad”. Similar to orange wine turned a development, alcohol-free wine is one thing that’s gaining recognition with sure teams, notably youthful, health-conscious customers. Nevertheless it gained’t have any actual influence on the advantageous wine world.
With a rising curiosity in wine as a type of funding, do you take into account Lodovico a wine meant for collectors, traders, or purely for the pleasure of ingesting?
We produce wine for pleasure — we wish individuals to drink and revel in it. That’s the core objective.
However in actuality, there are collectors who purchase wine as an funding. Some drink it, however others retailer it and promote it later when the worth rises. The English are particularly identified for this — they usually purchase 5 instances of wine early, promote two instances after a number of years when the worth will increase, and basically benefit from the remaining wine totally free. This was quite common within the Bordeaux market when costs had been booming. Traders would purchase wine early, maintain onto it for 5 years, after which promote at a revenue. Nevertheless, the Bordeaux market has declined lately, so this sort of hypothesis isn’t as profitable proper now.
Do you assume your wines are suited to funding in the identical manner?
To not the identical extent. Our wines usually are not but established sufficient out there for that sort of hypothesis.
The primary classic I ever made was bought at public sale as soon as — only one time. That was again in 2001. Then I ended providing it at auctions for some time. However from the 2021 classic, I would begin once more.
Not too long ago, some vineyards in France struggled to make sufficient revenue from wine gross sales alone, so that they launched tourism experiences — winery stays, guided excursions, and even Airbnb-like lodging on their estates. Do you see this turning into a development in Italy as properly?
Sure, this idea already exists in Italy. There’s even a authorized framework for it. If a winery turns into a part of this program, they obtain tax advantages and different benefits, however they have to adjust to strict rules. For instance, they will’t purchase meals from customary distributors; they have to supply from accepted native suppliers. Ideally, they need to develop their very own greens, fruits, and eggs on-site. It’s a lovely thought, however typically it’s tough in apply. If friends arrive when sure components aren’t in season, the winery should nonetheless discover a manner to offer them whereas staying throughout the rules.
Nevertheless, this mannequin is extraordinarily well-liked, particularly in Tuscany, which has turn out to be an iconic luxurious vacation spot. Tuscany attracts guests with sturdy monetary potential, so even small vineyards can profit. If a pair with a baby desires an expensive but genuine expertise, they will now discover precisely that.
How do you see the function of dwelling areas, such because the one you’ve created, the place the proprietor interacts with the friends?
They occupy one ground, pay an affordable quantity and stay along with the proprietor, making a sort of interactive, communal life-style. This has been particularly profitable with youthful individuals. I believe what they’re doing with that is excellent. We did one thing comparable at first, however the usual was so excessive, it ended up costing some huge cash. Now, I hope my nephew is taking good care of it. He’s very tight with funds and needs the stability sheet to be beneficial. He doesn’t perceive how vital it’s to entertain individuals. Even when it’s costly, it’s the one type of promoting we do. In fact, it’s not worthwhile for us as a result of we do it at a excessive customary, which suggests we want extra personnel, and that’s costly. So, it value an excessive amount of. My nephew is now specializing in making it a lovely spot as a result of individuals come and go to.
How do you see the function of restricted editions and exclusivity evolving within the advantageous wine trade?
We at all times produce small batches — about 10,000 bottles, which could be very small compared to different American wineries, which produce a number of thousand instances of 12 bottles every. In American phrases, that’s a few thousand instances, every case containing 12 bottles. So it’s actually a small operation, not like Romanée-Conti, however nonetheless very small in dimension. We haven’t promoted it a lot — phrase of mouth is the way it spreads. Some individuals prefer it, and so they discuss to their buddies. However we haven’t completed a giant promotion in regards to the rarity. We at all times promote out of the instances, although. We haven’t wanted to overpromote as a result of the rarity itself attracts patrons. Our instances are costly, however due to the restricted amount, we at all times discover prospects.
How do you see the function of expertise — be it in viticulture, manufacturing, or distribution — shaping the way forward for Lodovico Wine and the wine trade?
The technological side we use could be very trendy, however we even have a philosophy of minimal intervention. The aim is to the touch the grapes as little as potential to keep away from surprising them. We’ve discovered that noise can disturb the grapes, so we attempt to reduce it. The French have an analogous philosophy with their winemaking, the place they emphasise not disturbing the wine an excessive amount of. It’s a bit romantic, but it surely’s additionally about respecting the character of the product. We consider that the much less you disturb the grapes, the higher the ultimate wine will likely be.
What does the subsequent decade have in retailer for Lodovico and the world of winemaking?
Within the subsequent 10 years, the vineyards will proceed to age, and that may enormously enhance the standard of the wine. Older vineyards produce higher wine, and ours are solely about 14 or 15 years previous, so that they nonetheless have time to mature. We additionally plan to develop into the American market, which we haven’t been capable of do as a result of we’ve by no means had sufficient wine to provide it. When it comes to strategic progress, we’ll deal with making our wine out there to collectors in America, which has been a long-term aim.
With regard to worldwide enlargement, proper now, we’re sturdy in Europe, particularly Jap Europe. We’ve made nice strides there. Singapore can also be turning into an vital market, nonetheless at current, our gross sales are decrease, however we’re assured that we will increase that quantity to round 300 bottles. Our aim is to promote roughly 600 bottles there. We even have connections in Hong Kong and Shanghai, the place we’ve had some success. Nevertheless, the rich Chinese language market is at the moment extra excited about Burgundy wines, notably Pinot Noir. Because of this, we’re seeing a shift out there preferences, and we’re adapting to that development.
Lastly, in your individual phrases, describe what makes a “good” wine.
bottle of wine is one which has a stability of all its components, in equilibrium. It ought to have depth and character, bringing out the character of the grapes from which it’s made. It shouldn’t be excessive — simply sufficient to recognise the varietal. For me, magnificence is among the most vital facets of wine. By magnificence, I imply that the wine have to be refined. It ought to by no means be too overpowering or too weak. The secret is stability.
For extra on Lodovico wine, head to their web site right here: https://www.lodovicowine.it/en/residence.html
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